The recipe
Bring a deep pan of salted water to the boil. When the water is bubbling furiously, lower in 500g of ready-made gnocchi. Let them cook until each little dumpling has risen to the surface. Remove the gnocchi with a draining spoon and drain in a colander.
Dice 400g of assorted tomatoes and put them in a bowl. Slice 8 radishes and finely dice 4 spring onions or one of the larger salad onions. Finely chop a small handful of parsley leaves. Mix the tomatoes, radishes, parsley and onion together and chill.
Peel two plump cloves of garlic and slice them finely. Warm 3 tbsp of olive oil in a shallow pan then add 40g butter and let it melt. Put the garlic into the oil and butter. Keep the heat low then add the drained gnocchi. Let the garlic and gnocchi cook for a good 10 minutes until the outside of each little dumpling is golden and lightly crisp. The garlic should be a deep walnut brown in colour. Remove the gnocchi to a serving dish then add the garlic and diced tomatoes, radishes, onion and parsley and toss gently together. Serves 2.
The trick
The texture of the cooked gnocchi is at its most pleasing when the outside is crisp and the inside fudgy. The dumplings need to be watched carefully as they fry, turning them with a kitchen tongs now and again so they crisp evenly. They should be a deep nutty gold when cooked. The contrast of the hot, soft dumplings with the crisp, chilled tomato is at its best when the salad is thoroughly chilled before tossing with the piping- hot gnocchi.
The twist
For a colder day, let the tomatoes cook for 15 minutes with a little olive oil, so they soften into an impromptu sauce. Add a splash of red wine vinegar as they approach softness. Toss the hot gnocchi in the sauce at the last minute so they retain something of their crispness.
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